Bistro 256 at The Grapevine
- 256 S. University Dr.
- Plantation, FL 33324
- 954-475-1357
- http://www.grapevinegourmet.com
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- $$$, $20 - $40
- Caribbean, Latin American, New American
- Menu
Word is slowly spreading that the Bistro is a worthy successor to KM -- and certainly a welcome one in Plantation, where the few fine-dining establishments (notably Josef's, Upper Crust and Sterling Worth Café) aren't on the radar of most nonresidents.
Did we say Goeller? Last time we had dinner here, Kevin McCarthy, former Armadillo chef-owner and longtime South Florida culinary star, was running a fine-dining destination, KM at The Grapevine, in the small space four nights a week.
The market's affable owners, Paul and Carol Frieser, said that when McCarthy decided to leave in May, they wanted to keep the evening operation going. They changed the name to Bistro 256, relied on their own considerable experience (the market, also a popular breakfast-lunch spot, celebrated its 31st anniversary Aug. 1) and put Goeller, their talented catering and daytime chef, in charge. He hopes to add Wednesday and Thursday night service soon.
Décor remains the same: 15 tables set among shelves of wines, gourmet goods and lavishly wrapped gift baskets with a view of the refrigerated salad case. It's simple but cozy, and the service is friendly and efficient.
Word is slowly spreading that the Bistro is a worthy successor to KM -- and certainly a welcome one in Plantation, where the few fine-dining establishments (notably Josef's, Upper Crust and Sterling Worth Café) aren't on the radar of most nonresidents.
Goeller is making his mark with a limited but very good assortment of eclectic fare with island and Latin influences. While his hearty soups would be better suited to cooler weather, they're excellent. Save a few pieces of the complimentary bread to enjoy with the daily soup specials -- on our visits a splendid crab Florentine and a terrific grilled chayote purée garnished with sour cream, pureed black beans and a pair of entwined blackened shrimp. Very pretty.
The crisp chicken egg roll starter is a huge portion (sharing is a must) filled with chile-lime-marinated chicken, sautéed peppers, onions and a hint of cilantro, served with a black bean and roasted corn salsa. The crab stack is a lighter, better summer choice -- pan-seared lump crab layered over corn salsa and refreshing avocado purée.
Goeller does a good job with fish, whether it's grilled salmon or pan-seared flounder in a beurre rouge sauce. A moist pan-seared red snapper was elevated by lively sides of grilled sliced chayote, homey boniato mash and tropical fruit relish.
At KM, dishes weren't always hot enough. On our first visit to The Bistro, everything arrived at just the right temperature. On another trip, the osso buco could have been a tad warmer. Nevertheless, it was tender and flavorful, the four petite veal shanks braised in a red wine reduction and served with a delicious tomato risotto.
The eight-ounce filet mignon, one of six regular menu entrees, was buttery tender -- and very rich. The grilled steak is stuffed with sautéed wild mushrooms, roasted corn and Gorgonzola, finished with a cabernet sauce and served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sautéed spinach.
For vegetarians and fans of simpler fare, one of my favorites here is penne pasta tossed with a medley of mushrooms -- button, oyster, shiitake, portobello and porcini -- cherry tomatoes and Asiago cheese in a savory porcini broth.
End sweetly with a glass of Churchill's port from the moderately priced wine list and one of the delightful desserts created by The Grapevine's pastry chef, Monica Dueñas. The 24 Karat Cake is an over-the-top, three-layered carrot cake with chopped pineapple, pecans and the crowning touch, gold leaf atop a wonderful white-chocolate, cream-cheese, buttercream icing.
Hours
6-11 p.m. Friday, 5:30-11 p.m. SaturdayDetails
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Location
- Current 71.6 °F
- It's a beach day
- Head to 8th Street Beach
